Forgotten Treasure with dramatic dimensions

By Hendrik Thoma,

Sommelier in Restaurant Louis C. Jacob

"Rex vinum,vinum regis" ( The King of Wines, the Wine of Kings ) was said in the
Middle Ages about the wines of Tokaj. Tokaj was always present at the royal table
and was noted for its powers of healing. But in the course of centuries, Tokaj lost its
allure. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, interest in Tokaj wines was once more
renewed. Investors from all countries flocked to Tokaj, amongst them the English
journalist Hugh Johnson.Three musicians of the Hesse State Theater, András Bruhács,
Martin Schneider, and Carl Gustav Settelmeier had a similar idea.

In Mád they purchased seven hectares of Grand Cru vineyards.
With planning and foresight they invested in new barrels and equipment and reduced
the yield of the vineyards to increase the quality of the harvest.

The Tokaj region of Hungary is located in the northeast section of the country with
volcanic soil and an unusual microclimate protected by the Carpathian Mountain
range.With its warm and humid autumn, the soil achieves copious amounts of moisture,
which encourages the growth of Botrytis mold ( e.g. Botrytis Cinerea ) a harmless but
essential fungus which attacks and perforates the skins of the grapes fostering proper
development unique to the wines of the region. Through the perforated skin, the grapes
receive necessary moisture, and a sweet, syrupy liquid emerges.

The main variety of grape in Tokaj is Furmint, with its suggestive acidity plus the addition of
aromatic Muscatel and Lime-Leaf ("Harslevelü" ). The harvest takes place in November and
each 160 liters of new wine can be categorized as high as 6 puttonyos, so that the brew of
approximately 30 kg. harvested botrytis-affected wine, per puttoyos is achieved.

Incredibly the Aszú of Tokaj Classic Winery, Ltd. ferments four years in the cask!
After a rest period of an additional nine months ,1500 bottles are then filled.
There is evidence of a panoply of aromas of candied fruits, ripe apricots and
bitter orange marmelade . Two hundred gramms of residual sugar per liter is then
added, which caress the palate, and are scarcely noticed due to the high acidity.

This wine surely has dramatic dimensions. One is impressed by the oily structure that never
appears commonplace. At a blind tasting at the IWSC in London this wine won
the Gold Medal over the wine of Hugh Johnson.

1996 Tokaji Aszú 6 puttonyos, Tokaj Classic Winery, Ltd. Hungary.

Translated by Phyllis Bruhács